I just did a quick read up on amtgard rules, and the only stuff i can find that seems to need changing is increasing the diameter of the pipe insulation, and increasing the thickness of the front padding layers. And taping of the shafts of course. (Which is why i prefer birch rods instead of pine. Pine gives sharp splinters when broken, birch does not. )
as ar as the shafts go, I'll probably use hollow graphite shafts for endurance. We have a problem with people inadvertently stepping on peoples arrows during battle games
We have exactly the same problem here, though i think we have smaller battles.
My philosophy regarding larp arrows and bolts; Safety is(of course) always the first priority. I believe that the most dangerous part of a boffer arrow is the cost. If an arrow is expensive then a player is less likely to throw it away(or break off the tip and use the bolt as a wound prop ) when anything in the tip seems unfit or unsafe. That is why I build a lot of relatively cheap bolts. I also count on loosing a couple, either by stepping, or simply not found again when fighting night-time. I build cheap, but safe, and allow myself to remove potentially dangerous projectiles before and after every battle. (No, it is not very common. Most bolts are lost in night combat or otherwise not found.)
The people i know who has bought expensive larp arrows ($43 apiece, carbon fibre shaft and perfect aerodynamical head) has a much better range and accuracy than mine($3,5 apiece, industrially homemade), but they shoot very rarely due to not wanting to loose them. They have about 6 arrows each which further reduces their want to fire at uncertain targets. I carry about twenty bolts or arrows at my hip, and sometimes twenty more on my back(Backup, haha. ). I can both risk firing arrows that may be lost, fire uncertain shots at openings in armour , and either way shoot twelwe times more than them.
In short: Expensive arrows are lost as often as normal ones. They are not broken by stepping, while wooden shafts are. The cost of high durability can be well overcome in quantity at a lower price, allowing for a certain loss per battle. As long as safety is not lessened, I believe in cheap but many.
I see. I missed the projectile part of the rules. I assume it is because fear of splinters? Or does it have any other reason? What are people using besides gaphite? I cannot spontaneously find very many alternatives besides thin PVC-pipes.
Our bolts have to have a 2.5" diameter, and must pass a test as to how friendly (soft) they are, as well as not being able to feel the core through the foam. I'm not quite sure how I would need to change construction, if at all. It would really just depend on the foam's density.
My philosophy regarding larp arrows and bolts;
Safety is(of course) always the first priority. I believe that the most dangerous part of a boffer arrow is the cost.
If an arrow is expensive then a player is less likely to throw it away(or break off the tip and use the bolt as a wound prop
The people i know who has bought expensive larp arrows ($43 apiece, carbon fibre shaft and perfect aerodynamical head) has a much better range and accuracy than mine($3,5 apiece, industrially homemade), but they shoot very rarely due to not wanting to loose them. They have about 6 arrows each which further reduces their want to fire at uncertain targets. I carry about twenty bolts or arrows at my hip, and sometimes twenty more on my back(Backup, haha.
I can both risk firing arrows that may be lost, fire uncertain shots at openings in armour , and either way shoot twelwe times more than them.
In short: Expensive arrows are lost as often as normal ones. They are not broken by stepping, while wooden shafts are.
The cost of high durability can be well overcome in quantity at a lower price, allowing for a certain loss per battle.
As long as safety is not lessened, I believe in cheap but many.
I assume it is because fear of splinters? Or does it have any other reason?
What are people using besides gaphite? I cannot spontaneously find very many alternatives besides thin PVC-pipes.
How does they have to be modified? It is always good to know what rules other people have to build by.